How To Clean Cylinder Burn Marks On A Blued Revolver

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Only got around to cleaning my Model 19 and I see the sides and flutes are silvery. Can this be corrosion from titegroup or leading? Tin bluing exist damed this easily by 38Spl load with lead bullets?
Thank in accelerate
Rikman
Does information technology clean off with Hoppes?
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It's but carbon from burned pulverisation.
NMPOPS
I'thou thinking it'due south leading? It cleaned upwardly a bit inside the flutes,but the raised parts of cylinder are nevertheless "muddy". I put nigh 350 atomic number 82 SWC's through it with my son, so I wasn't thinking that lead would come up out of the bc gap? Just after a brief internet search I'g guessing it tin can??

Thanks for posting btw
CPE
I retrieve you're right, carbon and lead. All my guns are shooters and this Model nineteen from 1968 is in pristine shape. I was surprised and idea my bluing was coming off....

thanks
It is a combination of atomic number 82 and carbon. The shine of the lead makes it wait similar the blueish is coming off, but it is actually lead deposited on top of the blue. Note, though, that very aggressive cleaning (like steel wool) may well remove the blue.
Jim
Hi Jim,
I simply came back up from the basement. I left the cylinder wet with Hoppes overnight. The flutes are nice and clean and beautiful blue is back. The lead deposits on the high part of flutes non so. I tried rubbing the hopes with a paper towel and nylon brush, non much luck.

Thank you,
Rikman
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The carbon marks on outside of the cylinder may clean off adequately easily with damp rag, while the cylinder is still hot.
Zeke,
I cooked information technology on pretty adept, maybe some more shooting to loosen & rut it up may work? Tonight I tried a pencil eraser on a friends proffer, no luck. I also scrubbed with more than Hoppes & Pro Shot 1 step
Use the end of a wooden stick.. similar a chopstick or so.
But found a thread with pics on Southward&W Forum and the OP used LSWC & Titegroup like me...hmmmm
Titegroup provides very uniform velocities but it burns very hot since it has a very high nitroglycerin content. Personally, I would not utilize Titegroup with atomic number 82 bullets.
When you lot shoot a lead bullet in a revolver yous ever get some pb and pulverization eolith on the cylinder. The hotter the powder the greater the residue. My favorite powder for lead bullets in 38 Special is Trail Boss.
I won't utilise titegroup with atomic number 82 bullets anymore, got tired of cleaning upwards the mess. I went to slower burning powders for lead and plated bullets when using titegroup.
231, unique, power pistol, universal, herco, they are cooler burning than titegroup is and piece of work alot better with pb.
Titegroup stain. Non much you lot tin exercise to avoid it in my opinion. Titegroup and atomic number 82 is a bad combination for leaving a stain on bluing. I quit using it for that reason.
Aye, I'yard washed with it. I was just outside, 95F scrubbing away with Hoppes & gun scrubber ,hoping rut would help....Information technology'due south down to a few specs, I'1000 really annoyed, all my guns are shooters,but I wasn't expecting this.
Any other suggestions on getting off these lead specks is appreciated.
Rikman
I use a pocket-size slice of copper or brass to scrape the pb away (gently and with lots of solvent). My main tool for this is a thick piece of copper wire (about 8 gauge). I clamp it in a vise and hammer on ane end until it flares out to a mushroom shape. This will get into the flutes and pop the lead off. Any copper or brass streaks left on the blued metallic will wipe off with a rag and a little cold bluing. The same tool likewise does a slap-up job of cleaning fouling effectually the forcing cone and the frame and bbl. extension. Don't try anything annoying (this includes all polishing compounds) Yup, shooting lead in a blued gun can drive you crazy.
People want "clean" powders. To get more combustion and less residue, temperatures have to exist raised.
So titegroup is melting your pb bullets and lead vapor is condensing on the outside of your cylinder.
You lot could endeavour soaking information technology in a penetrant oil like Kano Kroil or a pb solvent like Shooter's Choice Lead Remover.
One expert method of removing carbon and leading is to employ Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
A 15 infinitesimal soak will usually remove but virtually anything.
READ THE Characterization, bluing tin be harmed if you let it stand longer then 15 minutes.

And as above, soaking in Kroil can besides do a good job of it.
I used Kroil to clean the stain off several of my revolvers. I used Mpro7 and my ultrasonic to get the rest.
Titegroup has its advantages. Its stain is its disadvantage. I won't use it for that reason.